Banana plant

Quick facts

Max height

30 cm

Growth rate

slow

Difficulty

beginner

Placement

midground

Propagation

plantlets on stems

Water parameters

Temperature

20–28°C

pH

6.0 to 7.5

Hardness

3 to 20 dGH

Cold water

tolerated (unheated setups)

Light and nutrients

Lighting

medium

CO2

not needed

Substrate

inert ok

Feeding

feeds from both water column and roots (liquid ferts plus root tabs)

Substrate

What this plant roots into (or attaches to). The substrate affects both plant nutrition and water chemistry; see each linked page for full effects.

This plant feeds primarily from the water column, so substrate choice matters more for its fish-tank compatibility than for plant nutrition.

With fish

Plant-eating fish

safe with plant-eating fish (tough leaves or unpalatable)

Diggers (corydoras, loaches)

may get uprooted by active diggers

Root-disturbing fish

tolerates fish that disturb roots

Habitat

Native to the southeastern United States, from Florida through the Gulf Coast states. The species (Nymphoides aquatica) is found in shallow ponds, slow streams, and lake margins. The common name comes from the thick, green, banana-shaped tubers at the base of the plant that store nutrients and anchor it to the substrate. These tubers are not true roots; they're modified leaf structures that serve as energy reserves. The plant produces round, lily-pad-like floating leaves on long petioles (stems) and small white flowers above the water surface. Submerged leaves are smaller and heart-shaped. In aquarium culture, the plant is often sold as a novelty for its unusual tuber appearance.

Outdoor pond use

This species transitions to outdoor ponds well, not just indoor aquariums.

Outdoor pond zones (USDA)

8 to 11 (winter low around -12°C or warmer)

Below the minimum zone, the plant won't overwinter outdoors but can still be grown seasonally and overwintered indoors. Several pond-friendly species (water hyacinth, water lettuce, parrot's feather) are regulated as noxious in some jurisdictions; check the legality data on the profile before releasing anything to an outdoor body of water.

Care notes

Place the banana tubers on top of the substrate or lightly press them into it; don't bury them fully. The tubers should remain mostly visible. Roots develop from the base and anchor the plant. Under moderate light, the plant produces submerged heart-shaped leaves. Under strong light or in shallow water, it sends up long petioles to the surface and develops floating lily-pad leaves and eventually flowers. In aquariums, most keepers prefer the submerged form and trim any floating leaves at the petiole base to keep the plant compact. Left unchecked, the floating leaves shade out the tank. Low to moderate light keeps the plant in its submerged form naturally. CO2 is not required; this is a low-tech plant. The tubers contain stored energy, so newly planted banana plants often grow vigorously for the first month even without great conditions, then slow down as the tuber reserves deplete. Long-term health requires moderate light and basic fertilization. Propagation: the plant produces daughter plantlets on runners. The tubers themselves don't divide. A healthy plant in good conditions is moderately paced in growth and undemanding. A good choice for beginners and for adding visual interest to a community tank. Water chemistry tolerance is broad: pH 6.0-7.5, soft to moderately hard water, temperature 20–28°C. Compatible with all fish that don't eat plants. The banana tubers are occasionally nibbled by bottom-dwelling catfish or snails but rarely damaged seriously. An interesting conversation-starter plant that looks different from the typical stem and rosette species in most planted tanks.

Further reading

• How to cycle a fish tank
• Water chemistry for fishkeepers: pH, GH, KH, and what they mean